De tijd is er weer rijp voor...paddestoelen en truffels!
Vorige week ben ik in Lage Vuursche al paddestoelen gaan zoeken. Alle soorten en maten gezien en .....laten staan. Elk jaar gaan er immers nog mensen dood aan een paddestoelenvergiftiging. Wel fantastisch om met je paddestoelenboek en vergrootglas in het mos te liggen en te proberen de paddestoel te benoemen. En als het niet lukt een foto te maken om het thuis uit te zoeken. Met paddestoelen kun je de meest heerlijke soepen maken. Gebruik daar ook wat gedroogde paddestoelen voor, want die geven extra veel smaak.
En dan de truffel. Woensdag vertrekken we met een delegatie Cheffen naar Piemonte. Eigenlijk gaan we op pad voor de Slow Food beurs in Turijn, maar het bezoeken van de regionale markten in de streek schijnt een must te zijn. En juist in deze tijd van het jaar is er in Alba de truffelmarkt. Daar wordt gehandeld tussen de jagers en de internationale kopers.
Deze week de decadentie ten top in het hoofdgerecht van het weekmenu. Vroeger in grand hotels en cruiseschepen op de kaart, nu in het Cheffen weekmenu: de Tournedos Rossini. Ossehaas, eendelever en truffel. Tja, soms is een beetje te veel van het goede net genoeg...
Paddestoelensoep
50 gram gedroogde paddestoelen (porcini)
500 gram verse paddestoelen (cantharellen, shii-take, oesterzwammen, trompettes de la mort enz.)
2 tenen knoflook
1 rode ui
8 takjes tijm
1 glaasje cognac
1 liter kippenbouillon (uit glazen pot)
2 eetlepels mascarpone
½ bos bladpeterselie
zout en peper
olijfolie
eventueel truffelolie
Week de gedroogde paddestoelen een half uurtje in een bakje met kokend water. Maak ondertussen de overige paddestoelen schoon en snijd ze klein. Hak de knoflook fijn en snipper de rode ui. Fruit in een koekenpan in olijfolie de verse paddestoelen. Doe er, als het meeste vocht verdampt is, de in stukjes gesneden gedroogde paddestoelen bij. Fruit mee, tot ook nu weer het overgrote deel van het vocht verdampt is. Doe de knoflook en ui erbij. Ris de tijm van de takjes en fruit mee. Blus met de cognac en giet de bouillon erbij. Zeef het water waar de gedroogde paddestoelen in stonden te weken en voeg het bij de soep. Laat 20 minuten zachtjes koken. Staafmix de helft van de soep. Zet het geheel nog even op het vuur. Proef en breng op smaak met peper en zout. Dien de soep op met een beetje mascarpone in elk bord. Garneer met gehakte peterselie.
NB Wie ervan houdt kan aan tafel een paar druppels truffelolie in de soep druppelen. Ik houd er niet van, maar wellicht heb ik nooit de juiste geproefd!
Tournedos Rossini
4 biefstukken van de haas (tournedos) à 180 gram
200 gram verse biologische eendelever, in 4 gelijke stukken gesneden
1 dl madera
2 sjalotten
1 glas kalfsjus (vraag het je slager)
1 (kleine) zwarte truffel
peper en zout
roomboter
Verwarm de oven voor op 180 graden. Bestrooi het vlees met peper en zout. Verhit de boter in een zware koekenpan en laat uitbruisen. Doe er 2 tournedos in en beweeg ze door de pan zodat de boter niet verbrandt. Bak de biefstukken 2 minuten per kant en leg ze in een ovenschaal. Maak de koekenpan schoon en bak de volgende 2 tournedos. Leg deze ook in de schaal en bak ze 6 tot 8 minuten in de oven voor medium rare.
Bestrooi ondertussen de stukken foie gras met zout en peper. Verhit een andere koekenpan en schroei in 45 seconden de lever dicht aan beide kanten. Haal de lever uit de pan en leg de plakken op een bord afgedekt met aluminiumfolie. Gooi het vet uit de eerste koekenpan weg en doe er een klont boter in. Laat schuimen en doe de gesnipperde sjalot in de pan. Fruit de sjalot een minuut of 4 en blus met de madera. Laat inkoken tot de helft en doe de kalfsjus erbij. Haal ondertussen de biefstuk uit de oven en laat 5 minuten rusten. Breng de saus op smaak, roer er een klont koude boter door en zet het vuur uit. Dien de biefstuk op met de plak eendelever en geraspte truffel. Geef de jus erbij. Heerlijk met aardappelpuree van verse aardappels.
Stoofpeertje met vanillecrème
Dessert voor 4 personen
8 stoofpeertjes (Gieser Wildeman)
1 liter rode wijn
100 gram suiker
1 kaneelstokje
1 steranijs
50 gram ricotta
1 vanillestokje
50 gram poedersuiker
½ citroen
1 bakje biologische vanille ijs
Doe de geschilde stoofpeertjes in een steelpannetje en voeg de wijn, kaneel, steranijs en suiker toe. Laat 1½ tot 2 uur koken tot de peertjes beetgaar zijn. Meng de ricotta in een kom met de vanille uit het stokje, de poedersuiker en het sap van de halve citroen.
Dien de peer op met een bolletje ijs en de vanillecrème.
Reacties (25)
Heerlijk een tratditionele Tournedos Rossini, maar dan toch liever met een plak ganzenlever i.p.v eendenlever en zeer zeker opgedient op een crouton.
Rolbo | 29 oktober 2006 14:26
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